Sewing-machine.



G. E. MOLYNEUX & G. S. GATCHELL.-

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED IuLY 23,19I2.

Patented 001224,1916.

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GEORGE E- MQLYNEUXaOEBAYQNNE, .AND GEQEGE S GATCHELL :0E RQSELLE PARK,

NEW JERSEY, ,ASSIGNOESTO s'IHE .SINGER MANUFACTUEING COMPANY, 'A .QORPO- RATION' OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWTN G-'1VIA GHIN E.

PetentedOct. 24, 191.6.

countyof Union-and State of New Jersey7 have invented certain nen7 and useful Improvements in SeWing-lX/Iachines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawi ings. i

This invention relates to mprovementsin seiv ing a machines employed `in 4the manufacture of garments made 'from `knit fabrics, and is especially designed for overseaming a previously formed seainas when attaching a sleeveto .the bodyportion of a garment,in which operation ythe sleeve is rst attached by a ,seam placed close tothe freeedges of the fabric, leaving suchedges exposed and eifectingan undesirable yridge which is later covered by overseain stitches .which act to cover and g flatten the. seam.

Theobject of tlie invention is to provide means for insuring that the v covering seam ivillsubstantially. correspond in length to the first placed seam or, if used singly, -to

substantially the length ofthe free edgesof the fabrics before being joined.

It is well understood that when stitching together limp elastic materials :Under .ordinary sewing conditions, the action of'. that portion of the feed-dog locatedback of the line of needle actuation tends to stretch the free edges of the materials, due to the lresistance offered by the action of the ireceiving end of the cloth-presseron the materials in advance of the line of needle actuation, and to overcome this difficulty there is herein provided a Work-retarding member located at the `rear of the needle and coactingivith the cloth-presserto slightly retard thematerial in opposition tothe feed movements of the feed-dcgthuspreventing the latter from stretching the material between the receiving and .delivery ends ofthe clothfpresser.

Heretofore it has been common to'provizde feeding mechanisms with a plurality offeeddogs having feed movements of different amplitude for overseaming a `-`previously formed elastic. seam, but such earlier c onstructions have proved objectionable because of their inability toineet the requirements of turning cornersowing.to one of saidfeeddogs inits movements not passinggthe line of needle actuation in the direction of theifeed, and their inadaptability for use in Iconnection With cylinder bed machines, wherein the `tubularWork-supporting member is Irequired to be constructed of very small diameter to accommodate the smallest size tubular Work, such as thesleeving ofinfants garments, and also 'because of the increasedcomplication of f4the feeding .mechanism which, of necessity, has to be vconstructed and arranged to ,accommodate the requirements of the stitch-forming mechanism,

The present invention is preferably .embodied in al cylinder bed ,machine having feeding mechanism-including a `feed-dog for advancing the Worlrlengthivise of the Worksupporti-ng bed, the Workretarding member being-mounted independent of the feeding mechanism and Avadapted to lbe projected within the line ofaction ofthe feed-dog above the surface of the cylinder bed and connected Withv means located below' said .bed and under the control of the4 operator Where` by the work-vretarding,member may be controlled at Will.

The invention isrepresented inthe accompanying drawingsembodied in a cylinderbed feed-upthearm machine ofthe type shown and described in our pending applica- Y tion Serial No. 521,801, filed Octoberv 9, 1909, Figure 1 being a sectional rear side elevation and 'F ig. 2 asectional plan ofthesaine. Eig.4 Sis a perspective view representing a part of the `feeding mechanism and the Worlr-retarding device. Fig. f1 `is a perspective vieivsliowing the Work advancingand retarding .elements in Kconjunction with a presser-foot, and with an interposed .section of fabric.

The frame of-the machineisshoivn formed with the hollowbase 1 andstandard, laterally extending tubular arm B culniinating in theliead et, and cylinder-bed yor ViWork-supporting horn 5 having at its .rearwardsend the flange 6 secured pto the lbase,beneath the over-hanging arm 3. Journaledinsuitable bearings in the base and the horn 5 is the main-shaft 7 carryingthe grooved belt- WheelS. andfornied withv the crank `9 connected by means of the pitman 10- Witlifthe crank-arm- 11 fixed upon the rearward end of the needleactuating rock-shaft 12 which is provided at its forward end with the crank-arm 13 connected by means of the link 14 lwith a collar '15 fixed upon the needlebar 16 carrying needles 17.

Coperating with the needles is a looper 18 secucd upon the rocking carrier 19 which,

is pivote ly mounted upon the forward end J of the louper-supporting rock-shaft 20 journaled within .and lengthwise of the cylinder-bed 5 and having an operative connection, including the pitman 21 and crank-arm 22, with the needle-actuating shaft 12 from which the looper derives its operative loopseizing movements. The carrier 19 derives its rocking movements from a connectionv lingly fitted within bearing bosses 31 ofv a fulcrum-block provided with the transverse bosses 32 embraced by and pivotally mounted by means of the screw-pins33 upon the spaced arms 34 of a bifurcated post or lifting bar having a. boss 35 fitted upon the feedlifting eccentric 36 fixed upon the mainshaft section 7 Mounted upon and rotatingl with the main-shaft is the feed-actuating eccentric 37 which is embraced by the strap 38 at one end of a pitman-rod 39 having at its opposite end a strap 40 embracing a stud 41 upon one arm '42 of a rocking sleeve 43 mounted upon the fulcrum-stud 44 and having a sec- I'ondv arm 45 carrying a stud 46 which is embraced by the strap 47 at the rearward extremity of the feed-bar 29. Through the connections just described the feed-bar, and hence the feed-dog, derives reciprocatory 'movementslengthwise of the cylinder-bed for the propulsion of the work, while the risingY and falling movements are communicated to the feed-dog through the vertical movements of the fulcrum-block 31 derived 'i from the eccentric 36.

55 extending upwardly from the pressureplate 56 which is shown provided with the depending rib or keel 57 and with needleapertures 58. By its described universal pivotal connection with the shank 50, the pressure-plate 56 is capable of tilting crosswise and lengthwise of the direction of feed so as to accommodate itself effectively to the work.

Secured upon the forward end portion of the cylinder-bed 5 by means of fastening screws 59 is the throat-plate 60 having the needle-apertures 61 and the parallel feeddog apertures 62 the outer ones of which are elongated to receive the upwardly extending work-retarding lugs 63 upon the spaced arms 64 connected at their rearward ends by the cross-plate 65 together constituting a lateral member of an angle-lever formed with a depending arm 66 and fulcrumed at the junction of its arms by means of the stud screw 67 upon lugs 68 projecting forwardly from the arched sustaining bar 69 which is rigidly secured at opposite ends by means of screws 70 in the upper portion of the arm 5 adjacent the fulcrum-block 31 above the feed-bar section 30.

To the depending angle-lever arm 66 is connected by means of the screw-pin 71 the forward end of a link 72 extending rearwardly through the arm 5 and pivotally attached at its rearward end by means of the screw-pin 7 3 with the depending arm 74 of a bell crank comprising a sleeve 75 which is fulcrumed upon'the stud-screw 76 tapped into a lug 77 of the base 1 and having an aperturedV lateral arm 78 to which is connected an extremity 79 of a spring 80 to whose opposite end is attached the chain 81 extending downwardly therefrom and in practice connected to a knee-lever or treadle beneath the table which supports the machine. Tapped into the rearward extremity of the throat-plate is a stop-screw 82 whose point yis adapted to engage the forward extremity of the plate of the anglelever member to limit the upward movement of the work-retarding lugs 63.

Referring to Fig. 4, the upper surface of the retarding member 63, when in effective relationship with the fabric at the time it is being advanced by the action ofthe feeddog, occupies a plane above the upper surface of the latter, which causes the feed-dog to advance the fabric in crowded relationship 4with the work-retarding member, and directly over the feed-dog the fabric is slightly crowded together to overcome the flattening action of the cloth-presser, which results in the fabric being presented to the action of the needle in its normal condition of elasticity.

It will be readily understood that in practice the operator adjusts the screw 82 to meet the requirements of the body fabric being operated on, the further control of the retarding member being at will to meet y of the feed-dog.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a throat-plate and reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism including a feed-dog, of a vertically movable work-retarder located back of the line of needle actuation and normally depressed below the upper surface of said throat-plate, and manually controlled means including connections leading downwardly from said work-retarder for varying the period of engagement of the.

work-retarder with the fabric being acted on during the operation of the feeding mechanism.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a throat-plate and feeding mechanism including a feed-dog, of a work-retarder normally disposed below the upper surface of said throat-plate and mounted upona stationary support independently of the feeding mechanism and movable on said support in a direction transverse to the work-advancing movements of the feed-dog, and means including a manually controlled element for .varying the period of consecutive engagement of the work-retarder with the fabric being acted on during the operation of the feeding mechanism.

the operator for varying the degree of retarding action of said work-retarder with respect to the amplitude of the individual feed movements of said feed-dog.

5. 1n a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a needle carrying bar and means for actuating the latter, an apertured throatplate, and feeding mechanism including a feed-dog working through an aperture of said ythroat-plate, of ay work-retarder normally disposed below the upper surface of the throat-plate and pivotally mounted beneath the latter and carrying a workengaging element adapted to rise through an aperture of said throat-plate for engagement with the work at the rear of said needle and in substantial alinement with said feed-dog, and means for controlling the position of said work-retarder to vary the period of consecutive engagement of the latter with the fabric being acted on.

y G. Ina sewing machine, 'the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a needle carrying bar and means for actuating the latter, an apertured throat-plate, and feeding mechanism including a feed-dog working through an aperture of said throat-plate, of a work-retarder normally disposed below the -upper surface of the throat-plate and pivotally mounted beneath the latter and carrying a workengaging element adapted to rise through an aperture of said throat-plate for engagement with the work at the rear of said needle and in alinement with said feed-dog, and means including a connection extending below the base of said machine to permit the operator to vary theperiod and degree of consecutive engagement of the workretarder with the fabric during the operation of stitching.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, `a throatplate, and feeding mechanism including a feed-dog, of a work-retarder normally disposed below the upper surface of the throatplate comprising an angle-lever having al lateral arm carrying a work-engaging element working through said throat-plate in substantial alinement with the feed-dog and a depending arm, a fixed fulcrum upon which the angle-lever is mounted, and means including a connection with the depending arm of said angle-lever extending beneath the base of the machine for varying the period and degree of consecutive engagement of the work-retarder with thefabric during the operation of stitching.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with' stitch-forming mechanism, a throatplate, and feeding mechanism including a feed-dog, of a work-retarder comprising an kangle-lever having a lateral arm carrying a work-engaging element working through said throat-plate in substantial alinement with the feed-dog and a depending arm, a fixed fulcrum upon which the angle-lever is mounted, a bellcrank, a connection between the depending arm of said angle-lever and an arm of the bellcrank, and a connection extending downwardly below the base of the machine from a second arm of said bellcrank for controlling the position of said work-retarder.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,l an apertured throat-plate, and feeding mechanism including a feed-dog working through an aperture of said r.throat-plate, of ay workretarder pivotally mounted beneath the throat-plate and carrying a work-engaging element adapted to rise through an aperture of said' throat-plate for engagement with the work in a-linement with said feeddog, an adjustable stop for determining the extreme work-engaging position of said work-retarder, and means vfor controlling the position of said work-retarder. v

10. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and fabricfeeding mechanism, the latter comprising a feed-har with actuating means therefor, and a work-feeding eiement-Y mounted upon and partaking of all the operative movements of said feed-bar, of fabric retarding means stationary with respect to movements corresponding in direction yto the feed of the fabric and normally disposed below the upper" surface of the throat-plate to effect at will variations in the extent of the feed movements of the fabric independently of the operative movements of said feeding element.

11. Ina sewing machine, the combination with `stitch-'formingimechanism and fabricfeeding mechanism, the latter comprising a feed-bar with actuating means therefor and the former mechanism including a throatplate, and a work-feeding element mounted upon and partaling of all the operative movements of said feed-bar, of a workretarding element stationary with respect to movements corresponding in direction to the feedl of the fabric and having its effective surfaces located on opposite sides of the line, of seam formation normally disposed below the upper surface of the throat-plateA to effect at will variations inthe period and degree of consecutive engagement of the work-retarding element with the fabric during the operation of stitching. Y

l2. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and fabricfeeding mechanism, the latter comprisinga feed-bar with actuating means therefor and the former mechanism including a throatplate, and a work-feeding element mounted upon and partalring` of all the operative movements of said, feed-bar, of a workretarding element stationary with respect to movements corresponding in direction to the feed of the fabric and having its effec-l tive surface operative in a plane above the plane of'effective action of the feeding element, and normally disposed below the upper surface` of the throat-plate to effect at will variations in the extent of the feed movements of the fabric independently of the operative movements of said feeding element.

i3. In a sewing machine, the combination -ith stitch-forming mechanism and fabricfeeding mechanism, the latter comprising a feed-bar with actuating means therefor and the former mechanism including a throatplate, and a work-feeding element mounted upon and partaking of all the operative movements of said feed-bar, of a workretarding element stationary with respect to movements corresponding in direction to the feed of the fabric and having its effective surfaces located on opposite sides of the line of seam formation, and operative in a plane above the plane of effective action of said feedingelement and normally disposed below the upper surface of the throatplate to effect at will variations in the eX- tent of the feed movements of the fabric independently of the operative movements `of said feeding element. 1

14. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism including-a feed-dog, and a throat-plate, of work-retarding means mounted independently of and cooperating 'ith said feeding mechanism and normally disposed below the upper surface of the throat-plate, and means continuously under the control of the operator for establishing and interrupting operative relation of said work-retarding means with the fabric being acted on.

In testimony whereof, we have signed our names to this specication, in the presenc of two subscribing witnesses. f

GEORGE E. MOLYNEUX. GEORGE S. GATGHELL. Witnesses IV. l?. STEWART, GEIFA VERNON.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents.

- Washington, D. C. 

